Improvements I've made in the last year

[DrewPetitclerc]

I agree with Madox, I've now modded 2 printers, one at work and mine at home and it needs a 15 to 20mm depth slot or what ever lets it reach, lots of material to work with.

[ata0921]

Yeah, deeper slot was the fix!

thanks!

[Billzilla]

I printed out that new angled fan shroud a couple of days ago, fitted it today - Was just resetting the print table height and my laptop crapped itself, so I didn't get to see how the new shroud goes.
I'll have to move the UP! to next to this desktop poota now.
But anyway it all went together very nicely, looks good thanks.

[DrewPetitclerc]

Extruder
1. Tolerant to material variances
2. Stable mounting
My best modification to the extruder has developed into;
• Replace "pressure" block holding "fixed position" feed roller bearing that applies pressure to keep filament in contact with extruder gear with new design 2 part adjustable constant pressure block and arm incorporating "Vlier" spring plunger to apply consistent pressure regardless of variances in filament diameter tolerances.

To date I have successfully use over 30 different colors of ABS and PLA from more than 4 of the suppliers out there.
I know that many who have upgraded to the new motherboard and controllers now find it difficult to use PLA and some even with ABS due to excessive heating from the motor and the thermal transfer coming up from the "Hot Block", this mod plus the added compressed air cooling I created has made a significant improvement on this, so much so that I don't change "ROM's" I always use the "UP! Plus_R_110113V6.01" for ABS and I extrude clear PLA at the 260c because I like the clarity I get out of the natural, I currently use a small table fan to blow across the build plate to cool the PLA quickly but plan to add a remote cooling nozzle.

Here is where I have posted the files to make this.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16711
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16712

Good News Everyone!
The tool maker that made my parts has finally given me a quote for the new machined aluminum "Pressure Extruder Block and Arm" set, he is quoting $250.00 per set if we get a minimum of 10 orders, this set will be 1 block, 1 arm, 2 dowel pins (installed) and 1 Bearing (installed).
I will recommend the "Vlier" plunger part number to order to anyone that orders a set, I will try to locate the part but cannot guarantee to have any available from my personal stock.
Any one ordering this needs to print a copy of,
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16712
I sent this part out to several Machine shops the company I work for does business with and we got quotes of an average of $485.00 per set, 1 Block, 1 Arm only, this is even with an enormous discount they give my company on parts.
This a really great deal and I've had great experience with this part on all three machines I work with (I have one and my company bought 2).
So if you want your printer to perform at its best with any of the offered materials out there I recommend this part.
Please drop me an email if you want a set.
Regards,
Drew

[DrewPetitclerc]

Replace stamped sheet metal mount between Extruder and linear slide saddle with a machined aluminum mount incorporating alignment features to reduce bounce in nozzle when short quick movement in print head occurs.

Another benefit of this replacement part is there appears to be less ABS fume smell produced, I can only theorize that when the extruder bounced along with the old mount part it would scape up ABS and continually burnt it.

Also it was surprising how much quieter the printer is, there was a lot of rattling going on that is now absent.

Here is where I have posted the files to make this.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16710

After a day of printing with this I am amazed at the performance upgrade, this is one of the most significant replacements I've done next to the self adjusting pressure roller.
1. the printer has never been so quite, that buzz and rattle when it moved in a short jagged path, gone.
2. the first layers do not get plowed by the nozzle when it needs to jump over to a new area, this may mean if there is no lift there will be no pushing off the part from the build layer.
3. when doing finer motions I get a smoother looking outer wall, not as many stray noodles poking out or creases where a repetitive motion causes a vibration throwing off the path of the nozzle.
4. I no longer worry that when changing colors if I tug out the filament or press it in too hard I might bend the old mount a small amount throwing off my "Z" setting.

Good News Everyone!
The tool maker that made my parts has finally given me a quote for the new machined aluminum "Extruder Mount", he is quoting $150.00 per part if we get a minimum of 10 orders.
To make it clear I sent this part out to several Machine shops the company I work for does business with and we got quotes of an average of $265.00 per part, this is even with the enormous discount they give my company on parts.
This a really great deal and I've had great experience with this part on all three machines I work with (I have one and my company bought 2).
So if you want your printer to perform at its best I recommend this part.
Please drop me an email if you want one and I will start the list.
Regards,
Drew

[Eurisko84]

Put me down for one of the Extruder Mounts please Drew!

Let me know bank details to international transfer (im in Sydney Aust) when you reach the min quantity!

Cheers,
Eddie

[Eurisko84]

Just as an FYI - I got a quote from a local manufacturer that we use regularly in our organisation for the Extruder mount he was looking for about AU$360 (~US$375) each!

At 150 its a bargain!

[DrewPetitclerc]

A recent addition to my regimen when I print is I wait till the first layer is laid down then I pause the print and apply a drop of MEK directly to the corners and areas that I think will be prone to warp or lift this means I drop directly onto the ABS traces and it wicks around and between the ABS and Kapton, then resume printing, this has reduced the incidence of lift significantly on parts I've printed repeatedly. I can still remove them from the Kapton tape with ease so it is not permanent bond.

As always I caution all who try this to be careful with MEK as it is dangerous if not handled properly.

[DrewPetitclerc]

After hearing from a few about my mod of the "Wind Barrier/cooler" that they were having more lift and layer separation I decided to modify it again, I've added a damper feature, I've never had to use the off feature myself but for those that want an easier way to change their minds here it is. I also added a mount point for a Mitutoyo dial test indicator for setting the level of your build plate to the nozzle.
I've uploaded the new files to Thingiverse.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21045

[arun4444]

what is the dial test indicator model you are using?

cheers

[DrewPetitclerc]

what is the dial test indicator model you are using?

cheers

It is a standard dial test indicator, it is the mount which is a standard post style. Sorry I don't have the part number but I'm doing this from my phone.

[cpodbob]

Hello
I was wondering where you got those high temp foam disks for your leveling mod that you did. I have made one of your extruder mounts and it works like a champ and i look forward to making it a little easier to level the build platform
thank you
-Chris

[DrewPetitclerc]

I was wondering where you got those high temp foam disks for your leveling mod that you did.

Hi Chris,

I got the rubber from a coworker, I think she got them as a sample from McMaster-Carr, they are 1/16" thick x 3" x 36" long strips, I use a 5/8" punch to make the parts and stack about 5 or 6 together.

Sorry I don't have the part number handy.

Regards
Drew

[goopyplastic]

macmaster part info:

Rubber Washers:

Part: 86215K52 - Weather-Chemical Resistant Santoprene Rubber 1/16" Thickness, 3" Width, 36" Length, 55A Durometer
$9.07

I'm sure you could just cut the circles with a scissor, but if you want to get crazy...
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-127 ... B00004T7WB
Maybe I should buy a sheet and a punch and make a bunch if others are interested.

Aluminum Bed:

Part: 86825K11 - Precision-Cast Multipurpose Aluminum (MIC 6) 1/4" Thick, 12" X 12"
$41.81 , this is enough material for 3 beds but they would need to be cut.

[goopyplastic]

I think I'm going to try and have the extruder mount made at shapeways in stainless, I have a coupon I need to use anyways. Hopefully the size variance ends up within reason, my main concern is the pin holes need to be sized properly and I imagine they will come out too rough and possibly even oversized from shapeways.

I've recreated the part in Solidworks and think I will shrink the pin holes to 2mm then drill them out on a drill press when they arrive so that the holes will have a nice clean surface.

If it works out, both parts excluding the 3mm pins would run about $35

[Fairly]

Awesome, that price is more up my alley!

Share the .stl and let us know how it goes please!

[JuliaDee]

Good luck and please do post results. Where does one find suitable dowel pins?

[odiegel]

Hi Julia,
I've made a couple of them (using laser sintered parts) and used old drill bits as the dowel pins. Just use a drill bit of the appropriate size and cut a bit of the right length and file down the end where you cut it...
Cheers
Olaf

[goopyplastic]

odie what material did you use? if not metal have you had any softening issues? have any pictures?

[odiegel]

I did them in PA220 (so basically nylon 12). On Shapeways, I gues this would be strong white flexible (though for small components like that, flexibility is not a problem. The ones I printed werent a direct copy of Drew's design but had a few other minor mods as well (but havent had time to test those mods yet).
No noticeable problems with the parts, though I havent run the machine that much recently. Remember that, depending which generation of Up! you have, the block that surrounds the stepper motor gear/bearing could be either aluminium, or plastic.
Cheers
Olaf